Travel Writer Mark Cummings travels across Europe by train.
It’s hard to beat the intoxicating thrill of a road trip packed with everchanging locations but I think I have just managed it. Gazing out of a train rather than a car window enjoying the contrast of breathtaking Alpine scenery, dreamy Italian lakes and the buzz of iconic European cities is a new kind of heaven.
We went with Byway Travel, specialists in sustainable 100% flight-free rail trips, on their “Better than the Bernina Express” experience. It felt like taking part in an episode of “Race Across the World” mixed with long lost teenage memories of interrailing through Europe and the thrill of criss-crossing America aboard those trusty old Amtrak trains.
Day One: The trip started and ended at my local Kemble Station in the company of my friend Deirdre who runs the “Off the Rails Café” and kindly sent us on our way with her award-winning bacon bap and the promise of a lift home on our return. I was still wiping the flour from Deirdre’s bun off my “5 o’clock shadow” as we arrived in Paris in time for a late lunch.
Day Two: We caught the 10:18 from Gare De Lyon and after three hours of rolling French countryside we stepped off the train and took a long, deep gulp of fresh, clean Swiss air. We took a boat trip on Lake Geneva. Charlie Chaplin, David Bowie, Noel Coward and many more decided to live on its shores. Even Phil Collins spent several years there but please don’t let that put you off. The Botanical Gardens and Old Town were a treat.
Days Three and Four: Next morning’s route offered tempting flashes of the deep blue lake, the curving contours of the Rhône Valley coupled with excellent vistas of the flourishing hillside vineyards. The gorgeous architecture at Milan’s station, Milano Centrale, gave us a clue on arrival of this city’s fashion status. I was already running out of clothes so I popped into Armani, Gucci, Prada and Versace but none of the staff would tell me where the nearest Primark was located. We spent the evening in the bohemian canal side district of Navigli devouring sumptuous pizza, fresh lasagna and creamy chocolate gelato washed down with cold Italian beer.
Days Five and Six: It only takes 40 minutes to reach Lecco on the banks of Lake Como and we fell in love with this friendly, spacious, gentle lakeside town. Our first experience with the locals was at a café called Imbarcadero where the smiley staff served us a coffee, tea, orange juice and large almond croissant for just 9 euros. Next door was the ferry ticket office. The staff couldn’t have been more helpful and suggested a 20-minute trip to a quiet beach for an afternoon dip. This became our regular haunt during two days of lakeside adventures visiting Bellagio and Varenna and simply chilling in our new-found home.
Day Seven: We headed back into Switzerland via the Bernina Pass sweeping through the Alps and we were treated to 90 miles of shimmering glaciers, snow covered peaks, precipitous gorges and magical mountain lakes. Much of the route is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site which includes the imposing curved Landwasser Viaduct and the corkscrew Brusio Viaduct. It was a breathtaking experience and we recovered that night in Chur, Switzerland’s oldest city with a charming old town full of winding alleyways leading to a picturesque cathedral.
Days Eight and Nine: A three-hour ride through more stunning Swiss scenery took us to our final destination of Bern. We enjoyed the city’s Bear park, Rose Garden, Aare River, historic Zytglogge Clock Tower and the house Einstein lived in. I rose at 4:30am on our last day to watch the full moon handover the city’s skyline to the blazing sun that had been our constant companion throughout the trip. From the Stay Koook hotel’s roof terrace, I saw the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau mountains mysteriously appear on the horizon as the wispy haze dissolved into a stunning sunrise. Later that day we were back at Kemble station. Our taxi driver Deirdre received a hug and some slightly melted Swiss chocolate and I watched the sunset from my treehouse as I processed the last glorious nine days.
To follow in Mark’s footsteps and book a European train journey, meet Mark and our train experts at the Cheltenham Travel Festival taking place on Saturday 21st February 2026, from 10am-4pm. Plan your visit, view our travel talks, exhibitors and book your tickets to attend.
