What it’s really like to be on top of the world – a journey to the world’s northernmost settlement!
Svalbard is an archipelago halfway between mainland Norway and the North Pole. Its name means “cold shores”. Yet Spitsbergen, the largest of the islands and home to several permanent settlements, pulses with unexpected warmth and life. This remote Arctic outpost is a place where the world truly comes together. People from different parts of the globe live and work here and call Svalbard home.
My adventure begins in Longyearbyen, the world’s northernmost town, where brightly painted houses stood against the deep blue sea and a blanket of snow. The town feels alive and welcoming, not just from the aroma of steaming coffee drifting out of its cosy cafés, but from the people themselves.
I arrive in the late evening, but the sun still hangs above the horizon, casting a warm orange glow across the frozen landscape. I’m met with a view so surreal, it changes everything I thought I knew about what it means to journey north.
Life here thrives beneath a sky that alternates between the never-ending light of summer and the deep darkness of winter. The polar nights may wrap the land in darkness, yet they are anything but gloomy. The snow glows faintly under the moonlight, and the stars burn brighter than anywhere else on Earth. The sun, hiding just below the horizon, paints subtle pink hues across the sky. Clear skies reveal the dancing aurora borealis, be it day or night. A serene reminder that even in the longest darkness, beauty never fades.
There are no roads connecting the scattered settlements of Svalbard and discovery here means venturing into the wild. You can jump onto a snowmobile and race across the frozen Adventdalen Valley, on one of the new, silent electric models, or glide over the snow on a dog sledge, guided by eager huskies.
During summer, you can take a cruise around the Svalbard archipelago, for a chance to witness Arctic wildlife in its natural habitat. From seals basking on drifting ice to minke whales surfacing beside the ship, every moment feels like a scene from a nature documentary. You might spot an Arctic fox darting across the tundra, reindeer grazing in the valleys, or even a polar bear or walrus resting on an ice floe. You can even send a postcard home from Ny-Ålesund, a tiny research settlement that boasts the northernmost post office in the world.
Svalbard’s appeal is not just in its wildlife, it’s in its unusual human stories. One afternoon, I visited Coal Mine No. 3. Unlike most mines, you do not descend deep underground. Instead, you walk straight into the mountain, taking a journey through the heart of Svalbard’s mining history.
Alternatively, visit the Global Seed Vault, a futuristic structure carved into the permafrost, where millions of seeds from around the world are stored, as a backup plan for humanity’s future. It felt fitting that such a lifeline lies hidden here, beneath eternal ice. Finally, sample the world’s northernmost craft beer at Svalbard Bryggeri, brewed right there, using glacier water. And if you are wondering what you might get to eat there, you will be pleasantly surprised by the number of restaurants offering fine dining experiences.
Best time to visit
May-mid August: Continuous sunshine, ideal for cruises and chances of seeing arctic wildlife. November – mid February: Polar nights (the sun does not rise above the horizon), northern lights, and enjoy artic adventures such as snowmobiling, dog sledging and snow cat rides.
Top tip: You are in polar bear country, but don’t expect to see one up close (and that’s a good thing).
How to book
Why not embark on your own journey of discovery, and create stories that are uniquely yours? Trotting Soles ([email protected] or 07553 709314) offers 5 day / 4 night packages from £750pp and includes accommodation with breakfast, 2 excursions including guide and transport. Excludes international flights.
This article was written by Sunita Ramanand and published on Saturday, November 15, 2025. Costs correct at the time of publication.
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